February plans for MGAM–“The People” Paper Pattern Service 581

 

 

I’m running very late with this. There are good reasons: upgrading my work website clearlyedited.com and an editing, words and books blog at clearlyedited.wordpress.com. A shameless bit of link dropping – but I’m just so glad I’m nearly finished with only some minor (and probably endless) tweaking to go.

I’ve successfully avoided Wordpress until now, largely because I find their constant efforts to upsell  annoying. I appreciate that they need to make money, but really – $30 for a font or colour change?  I was getting so frustrated with the limitations of the free templates, I was nearly tempted. Nearly. I donated the $30 to a Mary River Turtle hatchling instead.

Back to “The People” 581. I obtained this from the UK. It’s undated but obviously from the 1950s. Inside, I found an old newspaper clipping advertising the pattern for ‘the spring bride’:

It’s not long until the end of February, so I’ll do the panties. Once I’ve finished, I’ll post a collection of notes and tips for choosing a vintage panties pattern, or drafting your own.

January’s dress–Simplicity 8829 (1970)

Not the pantdress though. I thought a sleeveless dress might be the ticket for a Queensland summer.

Make a Garment a Month–My November Dress, Simplicity 2476 (late 1930s) in the planning

 

I’m very partial to #1. I can’t really see the puffs, cuffs and collar of #2 working for me, but if anyone out there has made this- I’d love to see it!

The mid- to late 1930s is my favourite period. The 1930s and this pattern in particular have their pluses and minuses for me.

Pluses:

Nifty pockets!

Relatively minimal redrafting needed for those of us whose hip measurement is a size or two  up from their bust measurement. For example this pattern is a size 16: bust 34 ins, waist 28, hip 37. By contrast the lower half of size 16 patterns from the same company shrank to 26 and 36 ins for waist and hip respectively.

Like many 1930s patterns, this is made up of a number of small pieces with good potential for using fabrics found in op shops, and recycled bits and pieces.

This particular pattern looks pretty straight forward:

Minuses:

1930s styles, as depicted in pattern cover art, derive much  their aesthetically pleasing shape from exaggerated shoulder width and impossibly narrow hips. I always worry that the imagined style will not survive translation into an actual wearable garment.

This pattern is unprinted on fragile brown tissue. The pattern markings are made with holes. As you can see above, there are a lot of holes. Because the pattern is over 70 years old, there are a few more holes than there should be. I used my common sense as I traced it, but I’m not 100% sure I got them all in the right place.

As is usual for the 1930s, the instructions and accompanying diagrams are compressed and a little challenging. It turns out #1 has no seam or fastenings in the centre back of the skirt. Was it intended to be a housedress or an apron,or something in between?  #2 has a seam, but also an odd pleat that I can’t make sense of. This may be a clue that some of my guesses about the holes are wrong.

Here are my fabric swatches:

The bodice: soft Japanese printed cotton (picked up on sale at Spotlight).

The skirt: green polyester chiffon with a kind of scrunch dye effect to it  (op shop)

Skirt lining: blue poly-cotton (op shop)

Sadly, this fabric choice means I can’t do the pockets. I don’t think I can do those with chiffon. The points at the top of the skirt will give me enough pain as it is.

Wish me luck!

Bras, hypersensitive skin, summer and McCall 8092

 

Warning: this post contains no gorgeous embellishments, almost no lace and no pretty colours. It does contain a review of a vintage bra pattern McCall 8092. I did not make the bloomers because my fiancé begged me not to.

Butterick 6191 Blouse (1950s)

Vintage patterns wikia - Butterick 6191

Pros: raglan sleeves, nice and breezy for a humid summer and I hate setting in sleeves!
Cons: Will it look any good on someone whose waist is wider than their hand span? I don’t have a skirt to go with it and it definitely can’t be a massively full one as shown in the picture. Some people can rock the puffy skirts but I am not one of them.

Block pattern (sloper) drafting

A number of vintage sewing books include instructions on block (or sloper ) pattern drafting. Instructions are given on taking measurements from your body to draft a basic bodice, sleeve, skirt and occasionally trousers. You make up a prototype in calico (in Australia, NZ and the UK) or muslin (in the US). This prototype is called a “toile”. Having tried on the toile, you mark any changes necessary and modify the drafted pattern accordingly.

What I wish I knew about vintage sewing books and patterns before I bought them!

Like many of us, I buy my books and patterns online. This is great for pattern collectors and those who love to create retro inspired designs. But often I don't know exactly what it is I'm buying. If I could find a review, I couldn’t find a good overview of the content.